Английский вариант статьи от 8 марта 2018 про сращивание спортивных нахлыстовых шнуров. Исходный текст здесь.
Competition casting fly lines splicing
The 8th of March is an excellent reason to take the sewing needle and make photo instruction of competition casting fly lines splicing. I don’t splice fishing fly lines because to wait the bite of record salmon and think if one more potentially weak unnecessary place of fishing set stands or not — don’t want at all.
It’s possible to buy fishing line for every taste and finance — from Kola Salmon to Nextcast, of any needed for fishing cast distance and power. So even if i intervene in salmon fishing fly lines configuration, this is only trimming.
I consider this method as the best which I know at the moment. I was taught to it by senior casting friends, special thank to Ramil Yamaliev.
We will need:
— plastic glue (today will use UHU);
— thin sewing needle. If cord is so so (e.g., like in Kola Salmon — thin and loose) , the thin of needle becomes critical and it’s necessary to use the needle of max thinness.
— thin but strong and not waxed fly-tying thread. I like Ultra-140 from UNI in this role. But there is an opinion, that it’s better to take even stronger fly-tying thread — the one which impossible to break with hands. E.g., UNI-Cord.
— thick monofilament line 0.4 type;
— scissors;
— line. Specifically take the thickest part of casting line, it’s the most difficult to make not very ugly seam with it. This time it’s Gaelforce Equalaser, to splice it is a pleasure — thick and dense cord.
So, take off plastic by monofilament line hinged loop from the ends of splicing line parts (1.5-2cm):
Fold cords in parallel on 0.5-1cm. Sew this part by fly-tying thread twice:
Cut free ends of cord end-to-end with plastic. Free end of thread mount by the loop and tightening without effort to avoid constriction which may affect the flexibility of the joint.
Align this part with few layers of plastic glue step by step that previous layer could dry up. Surfaces are fresh so don’t need to degrease. In case of using Aquaseal/Aquasure (or similar glues) it’s done in one step.
Within one our you can go to cast. The joint is very close to line body by flexibility and dense, there is no any questions to strength in conditions of casting trains and competions.
It’s important to remember that there is a limit to line thickness at casting competitions — not more than 2mm for Seatrout-distance and not more than 3mm for double-handed disciplines. So it’s necessary to check by electronic micrometer/strangl that you don’t exceed this thickness in place of glueing.
Glues. Chosen for this post plastic glue UHU is better to use for reparing of line cracks and plastic cleavages. That is very topical for Gaelforce products. They are good in everything except price and tendency to quick damage. It’s very convenient to fill liquid UHU in cracks with thin spout and repeat this operation with 2-3 minutes interval if necessary. And in this case i degrease the surface. For splicing it’s better to use urethane glues like Aquaseal/Aquasure. They can be dissolved by the hardener Cotol — in first minutes substation will be more liquid, it’ll be easer to form necessary volume and shape, it’ll dry much faster than without the hardener. But with the hardener hardened massa will be slightly more dense. Urethane glues are good because there will no shrinkage of volume which happenes with polyurethane glues, e.g. «Moment Crustal». When using polyurethane glues you need to take in account the shrinkage and so apply glue with a little stock. In all rest i like gel-like polyurethane glues «Moment» (Henkel) in this role more — joint is more softly, fasten quickly and it’s possible to correct shape of still soft but not liquid massa with fingers and in one-two hours go to water (with urethane it’s better to leave it for 12 hours).
Spey Oddity 